As earlier written, there werent that much waves arround after our arrival in Nueva Gorgona. Luckily that changed and since a week we’ve got daily a running point break just a 300m walk from our place away. The spot is called “Playa Serena” (in the surf guides) but the locals refer to it as “Stanleys Point”. It is best running arround low tide and needs at least 2.5ft swell. Its possible to get a looong ride, up to a 1 minute!!!! But since there are more famous breaks arround, Punta Teta / Tits or Malibu its never getting crowded at all. In fact, most of the time there are just the 2 of us surfing, sometimes accompanied by Rupert Turner – a 65 Years old panamanian surf legend.
If the tide is to high or there isnt enough swell to get Playa Serena running, you can always try to get a ride at Playa Malibu. Its a rivermouth break that always picks up a little more swell than every other spot in the area and is surfable at all tides. When the so called Chame River and tidal action combine to shape the underlying black sand there are supposed to be fast tubular waves. Well.. We hopefully will find out soon.. Last time we got the chance to check the spot together with our new found Friend Billy Coffee, a former Bush Cop. Believe it or not, he owns a house just right in front of “our” spot Stanleys point. We are now often before and after a good surf enjoying the time with him and his wife Karin. The view from his patio out to stanleys is just stunning and to top that, there is even a Hot Tub and always good coffe or great old Rum. I guess we are currently living in a dreamlike state.
Anyway, he drove us out to Playa Malibu along the beach with his quad / atv. Even tough the waves were way to fast for us (and head high) the trip was good fun, just because of the great ride out and back. Bea even managed to not stop for a dog and just let them run besides the atv.
Other spots we’ve been introduced to (mostly by our good friend Rupert):
- Rio Mar, a fun right that breaks at low tide (but you need to walk for ages to get there)
- Punta Palmar, another point that we’ve never seen running – it seems that it needs huge swell to be ridable
- Hawaiisito, we tried to find that spot once, but didnt get lucky.. they say its a good lefthand point break
- San Carlos Point, its a right pointbreak (also called Jeffreys) which is running on low tide, too
- There are many more breaks in Panama, here a good List of the most famous ones
That’s it, that’s all of our daily schedule so far.